How To Remove Bicycle Pedals

Learning how to remove bicycle pedals is a fundamental skill for any cyclist. Whether you're upgrading to a new set, packing your bike for travel, or performing routine maintenance, this guide provides clear, step-by-step instructions. Getting it right prevents damage to your bike's crank arms and ensures you can swap pedals quickly and safely. We'll cover the tools you need, the correct turning direction for each pedal (one is reverse-threaded!), and how to handle stubborn, seized pedals without frustration.

Fast Answer

Right Pedal (Driveside): Loosens anti-clockwise (standard thread).
Left Pedal (Non-Driveside): Loosens clockwise (reverse-threaded).
Tool Needed: 15mm pedal spanner or a 6mm/8mm Allen key.
Key Motion: Always turn the tool towards the back of the bike.

5-15 Minutes Time needed

Easy Difficulty

Reverse Threading Watch out for

Before You Start

Check your pedals: Determine if they need a 15mm pedal spanner (which fits on the flats of the axle near the crank) or a hex key/Allen key (which fits into the end of the axle, from the inside of the crank arm). This is the most crucial first step.
Gather your tools: You will need the correct spanner or hex key, a clean rag, and potentially some penetrating oil (like GT85 or WD-40) for stuck pedals.
Prepare your bike: Place the bike in a repair stand if you have one. If not, lean it securely against a wall so it won't move while you apply force.
Protect your hands: Shift the chain onto the largest front chainring. This helps prevent deep cuts on your knuckles if the spanner slips.

Check first: The single most important thing to remember is that the left pedal has a reverse thread. You must turn it clockwise to loosen it. Forcing it the wrong way will only tighten it and can permanently damage your crank arm.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Position the Drivetrain and First Pedal

Let's start with the right-side (driveside) pedal, which is the side with the chainrings. Rotate the crank arm so it points forward, roughly parallel to the ground in the 3 o'clock position. This setup gives you the best leverage and ensures that when you push down on the tool, your force is directed safely into the rotation.

If you're using a pedal spanner, fit it securely onto the flats of the pedal axle, as close to the crank arm as possible. If you're using a hex key, insert it fully into the socket on the back side of the crank arm. A snug, secure fit is essential to avoid stripping the bolt or the tool.

Tip: If the spanner is a loose fit, try approaching the flats from the other side. Sometimes one angle provides a tighter grip than the other, reducing the risk of slipping.

Remove the Right-Side (Driveside) Pedal

The right-side pedal uses a standard thread, so the old saying "righty-tighty, lefty-loosy" applies. To loosen it, you need to turn the spanner or hex key anti-clockwise. The easiest way to remember this is to position your tool so it points upwards and then pull it towards the back of the bike.

Apply steady, firm pressure. Avoid jerky movements, which can cause the tool to slip and you to scrape your knuckles. If the pedal doesn't budge, double-check that you are turning it the correct way. You may need to use your body weight to get it started. Once it breaks free, it should unscrew easily by hand.

Position and Remove the Left-Side (Non-Driveside) Pedal

Now, move to the other side of the bike. The left-side pedal is the tricky one because it is reverse-threaded. This is a design feature to stop the pedal from unscrewing itself as you ride due to a mechanical effect called precession.

To remove it, you must turn the tool clockwise. Again, the simplest way to get this right is to follow a consistent physical motion. Position the left crank arm so it points forward, in the 9 o'clock position. Attach your spanner or hex key so the handle points upwards. Just like on the right side, pull the tool towards the back of the bike. This physical action works for both sides and helps you avoid confusion about threading.

Remember: For the left pedal, turning clockwise loosens it. This feels counter-intuitive but is correct. "Lefty-tighty, righty-loosy" is the rule here.

Handle a Stuck or Seized Pedal

It's very common for pedals to be stuck fast, especially if they haven't been removed in years or were installed without grease. If you're applying significant force and it's not moving, stop before you damage something. First, spray a generous amount of penetrating oil onto the area where the pedal axle threads into the crank arm. Let it sit for at least 15-20 minutes to work its way into the threads.

After waiting, try again. If it's still stuck, you need more leverage. You can slide a hollow metal pipe (a 'cheater bar') over the handle of your spanner to extend its length. This multiplies your force, but be careful—apply pressure smoothly and slowly. A sudden jolt could strip the tool or the pedal. For hex keys, you can sometimes tap the end of the key with a mallet to shock the threads loose.

Clean the Crank Arm Threads

Once both pedals are successfully removed, take a moment to prepare the crank arms for the new set. Use a clean rag to wipe out the threaded holes in both crank arms. You'll likely find a buildup of old grease, dirt, and metallic grit.

For a thorough job, spray a small amount of degreaser onto the rag and use it to clean the threads until they are completely free of debris. Inspect the threads for any signs of damage (known as cross-threading). Clean threads will ensure your new pedals install smoothly and tighten to the correct specification, preventing them from seizing in the future.

Quick Reference

Situation	Action	Why
Removing the RIGHT pedal	Turn the tool ANTI-CLOCKWISE (towards the rear wheel)	It has a standard thread.
Removing the LEFT pedal	Turn the tool CLOCKWISE (towards the rear wheel)	It has a reverse thread to prevent it from loosening while you pedal.
A pedal is completely stuck	Apply penetrating oil, wait 15 mins, then use a longer tool for leverage.	Corrosion or lack of grease has seized the threads; leverage is needed.
Installing new pedals	Apply a thin layer of grease to the pedal threads before screwing them in.	Prevents corrosion, seizing, and creaking, making future removal easy.

Common Problems When You Remove Bicycle Pedals

Even a simple job can have its frustrations. Here are the most common issues you might face and how to solve them without reaching for a sledgehammer.

Problem 1: The Pedal Is Completely Seized

This is the number one issue, caused by a combination of dirt, water, corrosion (especially between a steel pedal axle and an alloy crank arm), and being overtightened during installation. As mentioned, penetrating oil and leverage are your best friends. If those fail, a final option for the brave is applying gentle heat. Using a heat gun (not a naked flame) to warm the crank arm can cause the aluminium to expand slightly more than the steel pedal axle, helping to break the corrosion bond. Do this with extreme caution as excessive heat can damage the crank's finish and any nearby plastic or rubber components.

Problem 2: You've Rounded the Spanner Flats or Hex Socket

This happens when you use a poorly fitting tool, a low-quality tool made of soft metal, or apply force at an angle. If the damage is minor, you might be able to get a grip with a higher-quality, tighter-fitting tool. If the flats are completely rounded, your options become more limited. A large pair of locking pliers (like mole grips) or a pipe wrench can sometimes bite into what's left of the axle, but they will likely destroy the pedal in the process. If all else fails, a trip to your local bike shop is the safest bet; they have specialised tools for this exact problem.

Problem 3: The Classic Slipped-Wrench Knuckle Scrape

It's a rite of passage for many home mechanics, but it's easily avoided. The main cause is a sudden release of tension when the pedal finally breaks free, sending your hand flying into the sharp teeth of the chainring. To prevent this, always ensure your chain is on the largest chainring. This acts as a guard. Secondly, wear a pair of work gloves. Finally, try to position yourself so you are pulling the wrench towards you rather than pushing it away from you. Pulling gives you far more control over the force you apply.

Advanced Tips for Removing Bicycle Pedals

Once you've mastered the basics, a few extra techniques can make the job even smoother, especially on older or neglected bikes.

Understand Torque: Pedals need to be tight, but not ridiculously so. The recommended torque is usually around 35-40 Newton-metres (Nm). Overtightening is a primary cause of seized pedals. When you install your new pedals, tighten them firmly, but you don't need to stand on the spanner. Using a torque wrench is the professional way to get it perfect every time.
Always Use Grease: This is less a tip and more a golden rule. Before installing any pedal, new or old, apply a thin coating of bicycle-specific grease or anti-seize compound to the threads. This creates a barrier against water and galvanic corrosion, ensuring you'll be able to remove the pedal easily next time, even years down the line.
Check Pedal Washers: Some pedals come with very thin washers that sit between the pedal axle and the face of the crank arm. They are there to ensure a perfect fit and protect the surface of carbon cranks. If your old pedals had them, make sure you use them (or new ones) with your new pedals. If they didn't, you likely don't need them.

How To Remove Bicycle Pedals FAQ

Why is the left bicycle pedal reverse-threaded?

It's to prevent the pedal from unscrewing itself while you ride. Due to a phenomenon called mechanical precession, the force from your pedalling action would slowly but surely work to loosen a standard-threaded pedal on the left side. The reverse thread counteracts this force, so it effectively self-tightens very slightly as you pedal.

Can I use a regular adjustable spanner instead of a pedal spanner?

You can try, but it's often not a good idea. Most adjustable spanners are too thick to fit into the narrow gap between the pedal body and the crank arm. A dedicated pedal spanner is much thinner and usually longer, providing better leverage. Using the wrong tool is the fastest way to round the flats on the pedal axle.

What kind of grease is best for pedal threads?

Any good quality bicycle grease will work perfectly well. Lithium-based bike grease is a common and effective choice. Alternatively, you can use an anti-seize compound (often copper or titanium-based), which is specifically designed to prevent two different types of metal from bonding together over time.

How often should I remove and regrease my pedals?

For most riders, checking and regreasing your pedals once a year as part of a general service is plenty. If you frequently ride in wet, muddy, or gritty conditions, or if you wash your bike often with powerful sprays, doing it every six months is a good preventative measure against seizing.

Final Checklist for Removing Bicycle Pedals

Confirm the tool needed for your specific pedals (15mm spanner or 6/8mm hex key).
Position the bike securely and shift the chain to the large chainring.
For the right pedal, turn the tool anti-clockwise to loosen.
For the left pedal, turn the tool clockwise to loosen.
Use the "pull towards the back of the bike" motion as a reliable guide for both sides.
Apply penetrating oil and use extra leverage for any stuck pedals.
Clean the crank arm threads thoroughly after removal.
Remember to apply fresh grease to the new pedal threads before installation.