How Do You Take Off Bike Pedals
A practical step-by-step guide to how do you take off bike pedals, including preparation, instructions, common issues, tips, and next steps.
How Do You Take Off Bike Pedals
Removing your bike pedals is a fundamental maintenance skill every cyclist should know. Whether you're upgrading to a new set, packing your bike for travel, or giving your crankset a deep clean, this guide provides a clear, step-by-step process. We'll walk you through the tools you need and the crucial trick to remembering which way to turn the wrench—a common point of confusion. This process is simple, but getting it wrong can damage your bike's components, so follow along carefully to do the job right the first time.
Fast Answer
- Right Pedal (Drive Side): Unscrews anti-clockwise (standard "lefty-loosey").
- Left Pedal (Non-Drive Side): Unscrews clockwise (this is a reverse thread).
- Easy Mnemonic: Position the wrench and always turn it towards the back of the bike to loosen either pedal.
Before You Start
- Pedal Wrench or Allen Key: Check your pedals. Most use a slim 15mm pedal wrench that fits on the flats between the pedal and the crank arm. Some modern pedals only have a socket on the end of the axle for a 6mm or 8mm Allen key.
- Degreaser and Rags: For cleaning the threads once the pedals are off.
- New Grease: Essential for reinstalling pedals to prevent them from seizing in the future.
- A pair of gloves (optional but recommended): To protect your hands and improve grip.
Step-by-Step Instructions
Position the Bike Securely
Your bike needs to be stable so you can apply force without it rolling away or falling over. The best option is to place it in a bike repair stand. If you don't have one, lean the bike securely against a wall, making sure the side you are working on is accessible. Avoid using the kickstand, as it's not designed to handle the sideways force you'll be applying.
It's also a great idea to shift the chain onto the largest front chainring. This acts as a guard, protecting your knuckles from the sharp teeth if your hand slips.
Start with the Right Pedal (Drive Side)
We'll begin on the right-hand side of the bike, where the chain and gears are located. This is the "drive side." Rotate the crank arm so it's pointing forwards, in the 3 o'clock position. This setup gives you the best leverage, allowing you to push down with your body weight.
Most pedals are marked with an 'R' for Right and an 'L' for Left, usually stamped on the end of the axle or on the wrench flats. Confirm you are working on the 'R' pedal.
Attach Your Tool Correctly
If using a 15mm pedal wrench, slide it onto the flats on the pedal axle, as close to the crank arm as possible. Ensure it's fully and securely seated. If using an Allen key, insert it into the hex socket on the very end of the pedal axle, from behind the crank arm.
Position the handle of your wrench so it points towards the back of the bike, creating an angle with the crank arm. This will allow you to push downwards or pull upwards in a smooth, controlled motion.
Loosen the Right Pedal (Anti-Clockwise)
The right pedal has a standard thread. This means "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey" applies here. To loosen it, you need to turn it anti-clockwise.
With the crank at 3 o'clock and the wrench attached, push down firmly and steadily on the wrench handle. If the pedal is tight, you might need to give it a sharp, forceful push to break it free. An easy way to remember the direction for both pedals is to always orient the tool so you are pushing it towards the back of the bike. On the right side, this results in an anti-clockwise motion.
Move to the Left Pedal (Non-Drive Side)
Now, move to the other side of the bike. Again, rotate the crank arm so it is pointing forwards, this time in the 9 o'clock position. This will set you up for optimal leverage on the left side.
Double-check that you are working on the pedal marked 'L'. This is the one with the special reverse thread.
Loosen the Left Pedal (Clockwise)
This is the step that catches most people out. The left pedal is reverse-threaded to prevent it from unscrewing as you ride. To loosen it, you must turn it clockwise.
Attach your wrench or Allen key securely. Following our universal rule, apply pressure to the wrench handle so that it moves towards the back of the bike. This action will be a clockwise rotation. You may need to apply significant force if the pedal hasn't been removed in a while. Be prepared for a sudden "pop" as the thread breaks free.
Unscrew and Remove Both Pedals
Once the initial tension is broken, the pedals should be easy to unscrew. You can often remove the wrench and spin the pedal axle with your fingers until it comes completely free from the crank arm. Keep track of which pedal is which—don't mix them up.
Clean and Inspect the Threads
With both pedals removed, take a clean rag and some degreaser to wipe down the threads on both the pedals and inside the crank arms. Remove all the old grease, grit, and dirt. This is a crucial step for preventing damage and ensuring a smooth installation later.
Visually inspect the threads for any signs of damage, such as stripping or cross-threading. If the threads look damaged, it's best to take your bike to a professional mechanic before attempting to install new pedals.
Quick Reference
| Pedal & Location | Loosening Direction | Easy Mnemonic |
|---|---|---|
| Right Pedal (Drive side, with gears) | Turn Anti-Clockwise | Point the crank forward and push the wrench down towards the back wheel. (Standard thread) |
| Left Pedal (Non-drive side) | Turn Clockwise | Point the crank forward and push the wrench down towards the back wheel. (Reverse thread) |
Common Problems When You Take Off Bike Pedals
The Pedal is Completely Stuck
This is the most common issue, especially if the pedals were installed without grease. First, double-check you are turning the wrench in the correct direction. If you are, you need more leverage. Try slipping a hollow metal pipe (a 'cheater bar') over the handle of your wrench to extend it. This drastically increases your leverage. If that doesn't work, apply a penetrating oil like WD-40 or a bike-specific equivalent to the threads and let it soak for 15-30 minutes before trying again. As a last resort, gently heating the crank arm with a hairdryer (never a blowtorch!) can cause the metal to expand slightly, which may be enough to break the pedal free.
The Wrench Keeps Slipping
If the flats on the pedal axle or the hex socket are rounded off, your tool won't be able to get a good grip. This happens from using the wrong size tool or from repeated failed attempts. Ensure your tool is a perfect fit. If the flats are damaged, your best option may be a large pair of locking pliers (like Mole-grips) clamped down extremely tightly on the axle. This will likely destroy the pedal axle but should allow you to remove it. If the hex socket is stripped, the pedal is often a lost cause and may need to be professionally drilled out.
You've Skinned Your Knuckles
It's easy to slip and slam your hand into the chainring. To avoid this, always wear gloves. Secondly, try to position the wrench and crank so you can pull up on the wrench instead of pushing down. Our bodies have more control when pulling, reducing the chance of a sudden, uncontrolled slip. Finally, as mentioned in step one, keeping the chain on the big ring provides a very effective (if painful) warning before your hand hits the sharpest teeth.
Advanced Tips for Taking Off Bike Pedals
Using Pedal Washers
Pedal washers are thin metal rings that sit between the pedal axle and the face of the crank arm. Their primary purpose is to protect the surface of expensive carbon crank arms from being marred by the steel pedal axle. They can also help improve the chainline slightly in some specific drivetrain setups. If your bike had them when you took the pedals off, make sure to reinstall them. If you have carbon cranks and they didn't have washers, it's a good, cheap upgrade to add them.
The Importance of Grease
The main reason pedals get stuck is galvanic corrosion between the steel pedal axle and the aluminium crank arm. Applying a thin layer of waterproof bike grease to the pedal threads before installation creates a barrier that prevents the metals from seizing together. This makes future removal vastly easier. This is arguably the most important step when installing pedals.
Understanding Torque
While most home mechanics simply tighten pedals until they feel "very snug," components do have official torque specifications (usually 30-40 Newton-metres). Overtightening can damage the threads, while under-tightening can cause the pedal to feel loose or make a clicking sound as you ride. If you own a torque wrench, it's best practice to use it for installation to ensure your pedals are perfectly secured.
How Do You Take Off Bike Pedals FAQ
Do all bike pedals unscrew the same way?
No. The right-side pedal unscrews anti-clockwise (a normal thread), but the left-side pedal is reverse-threaded and unscrews clockwise. This is a universal standard across almost all modern bikes.
Why is the left pedal reverse-threaded?
It's due to a mechanical phenomenon called precession. As you pedal, the force causes the axle to precess, or "walk," within the threads. On the right side, this force naturally tries to tighten a standard-threaded pedal. On the left side, a standard thread would slowly work its way loose. By reversing the thread on the left pedal, the pedalling action constantly keeps it tight.
Can I use a regular spanner instead of a pedal wrench?
Sometimes, but it's not ideal. A standard 15mm spanner is often too thick to fit in the narrow gap between the pedal and the crank. A dedicated pedal wrench is thinner and significantly longer, giving you better access and much more leverage to break a stubborn pedal free.
What if my pedal only has a hex socket on the end?
Many modern, high-end pedals have a sleek design with no wrench flats. For these, you must use a long 6mm or 8mm Allen key inserted into the end of the axle from the inner side of the crank arm. The same turning directions apply.
How often should I remove my pedals?
There's no need to remove them for routine cleaning. You only need to take them off when you are replacing them, servicing the pedal bearings, or packing your bike into a travel case. However, it's good practice to loosen and re-grease them once a year to prevent them from seizing permanently.
Final Checklist for Taking Off Bike Pedals
- Acquired the correct tool: a 15mm pedal wrench or a 6/8mm Allen key.
- Positioned the bike so it is stable and won't move.
- Shifted the chain to the large front chainring to protect hands.
- Correctly identified the Right (drive side) and Left (non-drive side) pedals.
- Remembered the loosening directions: Right is anti-clockwise, Left is clockwise.
- Applied steady, firm pressure, preferably by pulling up or pushing towards the rear of the bike.
- Kept track of any pedal washers for reinstallation.
- Cleaned old grease and grime from the crank and pedal threads after removal.
