How Do You Remove Bicycle Pedals

Removing bicycle pedals seems straightforward, but a hidden trick often catches people out. This guide provides clear, practical steps to remove any pedal, whether you're upgrading, packing your bike for travel, or performing essential maintenance. We'll cover the tools you need, the correct turning direction for each side, and how to deal with stubborn, seized pedals safely. The key is knowing that the left-side pedal has a reverse thread—a crucial detail this guide explains in full.

Fast Answer

Right (Drive-Side) Pedal: Turn anti-clockwise to loosen (standard thread).
Left (Non-Drive) Pedal: Turn clockwise to loosen (reverse thread).
Common Tools: A 15mm pedal spanner or a 6mm/8mm Allen key.

5-15 minutes Time needed

Easy to Medium Difficulty

Skinned knuckles Watch out for

Before You Start

Proper preparation is the key to removing bicycle pedals without frustration or damaging your bike. Taking a few moments to gather the right tools and understand the task will make the job much smoother. This is especially true if your pedals haven't been removed in a long time.

What You Need

A Pedal Spanner or Allen Key: Check your pedals to see which you need. Most have flats for a 15mm pedal spanner. Some modern, sleeker pedals only have a socket on the end of the axle for a 6mm or 8mm Allen key. A dedicated pedal spanner is longer and thinner than a standard workshop spanner, providing better leverage and clearance.
Penetrating Oil: If pedals are stiff, a spray like WD-40, GT85, or a dedicated penetrating fluid is essential. It helps break down corrosion and rust.
Clean Rags or Cloths: You'll need these for cleaning old grease from the crank threads and for wiping your hands and tools.
Bicycle Grease or Anti-Seize Compound: This is for when you install your new pedals. Applying it to the threads prevents them from seizing in the future.
Protective Gloves: Strongly recommended. When a stuck pedal finally breaks free, it's very easy to scrape your knuckles hard on the chainrings.
A Bike Stand (Optional but helpful): A workstand holds the bike securely at a comfortable height. If you don't have one, you can lean the bike against a wall.

Safety, Timing, or Context Checks

Before you apply any force, run through these quick checks to ensure you're set up for success and safety.

Identify Your Pedals: Look at the pedals. Are they marked 'L' and 'R'? This confirms which is which. If not, the right pedal is on the same side as the chain and gears (the drive side).
Check the Tool Fit: Make sure your spanner or Allen key fits snugly. A loose tool can slip and round off the flats on the pedal axle or the hex socket, making removal much harder.
Position Your Bike: Ensure the bike is stable. It shouldn't wobble or fall over when you start applying pressure to the spanner. If you're not using a stand, ask a friend to hold the bike steady for you.

Check first: The most important rule to remember is that the left-side (non-drive side) pedal is reverse-threaded. You must turn it clockwise to loosen it. Trying to force it anti-clockwise will only tighten it further and can permanently damage the threads in your crank arm.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully to remove your pedals efficiently. We'll start with the easier right-side pedal to build your confidence before tackling the reverse-threaded left side.

Position the Drivetrain and Right Crank Arm

Start with the right-hand, or drive-side, pedal (the one with the chainrings). Shift the chain onto the largest chainring at the front. This serves as a guard, protecting your knuckles from the sharp teeth if your hand slips.

Next, rotate the crank arm so it's pointing forwards, in the 3 o'clock position. This setup allows you to push downwards on your tool, using gravity and your body weight to your advantage, which gives you maximum controlled leverage.

Fit the Correct Tool Securely

Select your 15mm pedal spanner or the correct size of Allen key. If using a spanner, slide it over the flats on the pedal axle, getting it as close to the crank arm as possible. Ensure it is fully and squarely seated.

If you're using an Allen key, insert it fully into the hex socket on the end of the pedal axle (the side that goes into the crank arm). A poor fit is the number one cause of slipping and damaging the tool or the pedal.

Tip: A simple memory aid for both pedals is "back off". Whichever pedal you are working on, fit the spanner so it points towards the back of the bike and then push down. This works for both the standard and reverse threads.

Remove the Right-Side (Drive-Side) Pedal

The right-side pedal has a standard thread, so the classic rule "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey" applies. You need to turn it anti-clockwise to loosen it.

With the crank at 3 o'clock, position your spanner so the handle is pointing upwards and slightly forward. Apply firm, steady pressure downwards, pushing towards the rear wheel of the bike. It may take a significant amount of force to 'crack' the initial friction. Once it breaks loose, it should unscrew relatively easily by hand.

Remove the Left-Side (Non-Drive-Side) Pedal

Now for the tricky one. Move to the other side of the bike. Remember, the left pedal is reverse-threaded. You must turn it clockwise to loosen it.

Position the left crank arm so it is also pointing forwards, towards the front wheel (the 9 o'clock position). Fit your tool securely, just as before. To loosen, apply downward pressure on your tool, pushing towards the rear of the bike. The same "back off" logic applies here. The force is applied in the same direction relative to the bike, but because you're on the other side, the rotation is clockwise.

This reverse threading isn't arbitrary; it's designed to counteract a mechanical force called rotational precession. As you pedal, this force would otherwise cause the left pedal to slowly unscrew itself over time.

Deal With a Stuck or Seized Pedal

It’s very common for pedals to be stuck fast, especially if they haven't been removed for years or were installed without grease. If you're struggling, don't just apply more force blindly. Stop and try these methods in order:

Double-check your direction. Are you turning the left pedal clockwise? This is the most common mistake.
Apply penetrating oil. Generously spray a penetrating fluid like WD-40 onto the area where the pedal axle threads into the crank arm. Let it soak for at least 15-20 minutes to work its way into the threads.
Increase your leverage. A longer tool provides more torque. If your pedal spanner is short, you can try slipping a hollow metal tube (a 'cheater bar') over the handle to extend it. Apply force smoothly, don't jerk it.
Use a sharp tap. With the spanner securely in place, give the end of the handle a few sharp taps with a rubber mallet or a hammer (use a block of wood to protect the tool). This can help break the static friction holding the threads.

Safety First: When trying to free a stuck pedal, be prepared for it to release suddenly. Keep your body positioned so that if the tool slips or the pedal gives way, your hands won't smash into the bike frame or chainrings. This is where gloves are invaluable.

Clean the Crank Arm Threads

Congratulations, your pedals are off! Before you rush to install the new ones, take a moment to do some important housekeeping. Take a clean rag and carefully wipe out the threads inside the crank arms.

They will likely be full of old, gritty grease and dirt. If they are particularly grimy, you can use a small amount of degreaser on the rag. Getting these threads perfectly clean is vital for ensuring your new pedals thread in smoothly and don't get cross-threaded.

Quick Reference

Situation	Use this	Why
Removing Right Pedal (Drive Side)	Turn Anti-Clockwise	It has a standard, right-hand thread.
Removing Left Pedal (Non-Drive Side)	Turn Clockwise	It has a reverse, left-hand thread to prevent loosening while pedalling.
Pedal is completely stuck	Apply penetrating oil and wait 15 mins, then use a longer spanner.	This dissolves corrosion and increases your leverage to break the seizure.
Installing any pedal	Apply grease to threads and tighten firmly.	Grease prevents future seizing and ensures a secure, creak-free fit.

Common Problems When You Remove Bicycle Pedals

Even with the best instructions, you can run into trouble. Here are some common issues and how to resolve them.

The Allen Key Socket or Spanner Flats are Rounded Off

This happens when a poorly-fitting tool has been used previously, or if a tool slips under high force. If the damage is minor, you might be able to get a grip by using a brand new, high-quality tool. If it's completely rounded, removal becomes very difficult and is often a job for a professional bike shop, who may have specialised tools like locking grips or screw extractors.

The Pedal Just Spins and Spins but Won't Come Out

This is a serious problem and indicates that the threads on either the pedal axle or, more likely, the crank arm itself are stripped. This is usually caused by cross-threading a pedal during installation. Unfortunately, there is no easy fix. The best course of action is to take the bike to a reputable mechanic. They may be able to repair the crank arm threads with a Helicoil insert, but in severe cases, the crank arm will need to be replaced.

I Can't Get Enough Leverage in My Small Flat

Working in a confined space can make it hard to position yourself and the bike correctly. The key is to brace the bike securely against a solid wall. To get more leverage, try standing on the opposite pedal to keep the bike from moving, and use your body weight to push down on the spanner rather than just your arm strength. A longer spanner is always a huge help in this situation.

Advanced Tips for Removing Bicycle Pedals

For those who want to take their bike maintenance to the next level, here are a few advanced techniques and preventative tips.

Use Controlled Heat: For an extremely stubborn pedal (especially a steel pedal axle in an aluminium crank arm), a bit of heat can work wonders. Use a heat gun (never a naked flame like a blowtorch) to gently warm the crank arm around the pedal thread. The aluminium crank will expand slightly more than the steel axle, which can be enough to break the corrosion bond. Use this method with extreme caution and keep heat away from any bearings or plastic parts.
The Importance of a Torque Wrench: When you install your new pedals, using a torque wrench is best practice. It ensures you tighten them to the manufacturer's specification (usually around 35-40 Newton-metres). This is tight enough to be safe but not so tight that it makes future removal a nightmare.
Always Use Pedal Washers: Many high-quality pedals come with very thin washers. If your crank arms have a flat surface where the pedal tightens against them, you should use these washers. They protect the finish of your crank arm from being marred by the pedal axle and can help ensure a more secure fit.

How Do You Remove Bicycle Pedals FAQ

Are all bicycle pedals removed the same way?

The principle is universal: the right pedal loosens anti-clockwise and the left loosens clockwise. However, the tool required can differ. The vast majority use either a 15mm pedal spanner or a 6mm or 8mm Allen key.

Why is the left pedal threaded backwards?

It's a clever piece of engineering to combat a force called rotational precession. The motion of the bearings inside the pedal as you ride creates a tiny rotational force on the pedal axle. On the left side, this force would slowly unscrew a normally threaded pedal. By reversing the thread, this same force actually works to keep the pedal tight.

Can I use an adjustable wrench instead of a proper pedal spanner?

We don't recommend it. Adjustable wrenches are often thicker than dedicated pedal spanners and may not fit in the narrow gap between the pedal body and the crank arm. They are also more prone to slipping and rounding off the flats on the pedal axle.

How often should I remove and regrease my pedals?

As a good preventative measure, it's wise to remove, clean, and re-grease your pedal threads once a year, or any time you are giving your bike a major service. This ten-minute job will save you from the major headache of a seized pedal down the line.

Final Checklist for Removing Bicycle Pedals

Before you begin, or if you get stuck, run through this final checklist to make sure you've covered all the bases.

Correct Tools: Have your 15mm pedal spanner or 6/8mm Allen key, rags, and penetrating oil ready.
Check Rotation: Confirm the direction. Right side is ANTI-CLOCKWISE. Left side is CLOCKWISE.
Secure Bike: Ensure the bike is stable in a stand or firmly against a wall.
Leverage Position: Rotate the crank arm to a forward-facing position (3 or 9 o'clock) for maximum downward force.
Wear Gloves: Protect your hands from slips and scrapes on the sharp chainrings.
Be Patient: If a pedal is stuck, use penetrating oil and give it time to work. Don't use brute force alone.
Clean and Grease: After removal, thoroughly clean the crank threads. Before installing new pedals, always apply a thin layer of grease or anti-seize compound to the threads.