How Do You Change Pedals On A Bike

Changing your bike pedals is a fundamental maintenance task that every cyclist should know. Whether you're upgrading to a better pair, switching from flat to clipless pedals, or simply replacing a worn-out or damaged set, this guide provides clear, step-by-step instructions. The process is straightforward, but it has one crucial detail that often catches out beginners: the left pedal has a reverse thread. We'll walk you through the entire process, ensuring you have the confidence and knowledge to do the job correctly and avoid common pitfalls like stripped crank threads.

Fast Answer

Left Pedal: Loosen by turning clockwise.
Right Pedal: Loosen by turning anti-clockwise.
Tool Needed: A 15mm pedal spanner or a 6mm/8mm Allen key.
Key Step: Apply grease to the threads of the new pedals before installation.

10-15 Minutes Time needed

Beginner Difficulty

Reverse-threaded left pedal Watch out for

Before You Start

New Pedals: Ensure they are compatible with your bike. The vast majority of adult bikes use a 9/16" x 20 TPI thread size.
Pedal Spanner: A dedicated 15mm pedal spanner is the best tool. It's thinner than a standard wrench to fit the narrow space and longer for better leverage.
Allen Keys (Hex Wrenches): Many modern pedals are fitted from the inside of the crank arm using a 6mm or 8mm Allen key. Check your new and old pedals to see which tool you need.
Bike Grease: A small tub of bicycle-specific grease or anti-seize compound is essential to prevent creaking and seizing.
Rags or Paper Towels: This can be a messy job, so have something on hand to clean old grease and grime.

Check first: The single most important thing to remember is that the left-side (non-driveside) pedal is reverse-threaded. You must turn it clockwise to loosen it and anti-clockwise to tighten it. Forcing it the wrong way will damage the threads in your bike's crank arm, which is an expensive repair.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Position Your Bike and Cranks

First, secure your bike. A bike workstand is ideal as it holds the bike stable at a comfortable working height. If you don't have one, you can lean the bike securely against a wall or have a friend hold it steady. You will need to apply a good amount of force, so make sure the bike won't slip.

Next, position the crank arm you are working on. Rotate the crank so it is pointing forward, roughly in the 3 o'clock position. This gives you the best angle to apply downward pressure and use your body weight for leverage, which is much safer and more effective than pulling upwards on a wrench.

Tip: Shift your chain onto the largest chainring at the front. This acts as a guard, protecting your knuckles from the sharp teeth if your hand slips while wrestling with a stubborn pedal.

Confirm Loosening Direction for Each Side

This is the step that prevents costly mistakes. Before putting a tool on the pedal, mentally confirm which way to turn it. A simple and reliable mnemonic is to think "back off". Whichever pedal you are working on, you will turn the spanner towards the back of the bike to loosen it.

For the Right (Driveside) Pedal: With the crank forward, pushing the spanner down towards the back of the bike is an anti-clockwise motion. This is a standard thread.
For the Left (Non-Driveside) Pedal: With the crank forward, pushing the spanner down towards the back of the bike is a clockwise motion. This is the reverse thread.

Repeating this check in your head before each pedal removal will build the correct muscle memory and prevent you from accidentally over-tightening a stuck pedal.

Remove the Right-Side (Driveside) Pedal

Start with the right side of the bike (the side with the chain). Fit your 15mm pedal spanner onto the flats of the pedal axle, between the pedal body and the crank arm. If your pedal uses an Allen key, insert it firmly into the socket on the inside end of the crank arm.

With the crank arm at 3 o'clock, apply firm, steady, downward pressure on the tool, turning it anti-clockwise (towards the rear wheel). Pedals can be very tight, especially if they haven't been removed in a while. You might hear a 'crack' as the thread breaks free; this is normal. Once it's loose, you can usually unscrew it the rest of the way by hand.

Remove the Left-Side (Non-Driveside) Pedal

Now, move to the other side of the bike. Position the left crank arm so it is also pointing forward, in the 9 o'clock position from this side.

Fit your tool onto the pedal axle. Remembering the reverse thread rule, apply firm and steady downward pressure in a clockwise direction (again, towards the back of the bike). This will feel unnatural at first, but it is the correct way to loosen the left pedal. Once it breaks free, continue to unscrew it clockwise until it is removed from the crank arm.

Stuck pedal? If a pedal won't budge, spray a small amount of penetrating oil onto the thread area where it enters the crank. Let it sit for 10-15 minutes, then try again. You can also try using a longer spanner or a cheater bar for more leverage, but be careful not to lose your balance.

Clean the Crank Arm Threads

With both old pedals removed, take a clean rag and thoroughly wipe out the threaded holes in both crank arms. Old grease, road grit, and metal filings can accumulate here. Getting these surfaces clean is crucial for a smooth installation and to prevent creaking later on.

If the threads are particularly grimy, you can use a small amount of degreaser on the rag to help cut through the old gunk. Inspect the threads for any signs of damage (stripping). If they look clean and well-defined, you're ready to proceed.

Prepare and Identify the New Pedals

Unpack your new pedals and identify which is for the left side and which is for the right. This is non-negotiable, as they are not interchangeable. Manufacturers make this easy by marking them, usually with an 'L' and an 'R' stamped or laser-etched onto the axle or the spanner flats.

Once identified, take your bike grease and apply a thin, even coating to the entire threaded portion of both new pedals. Don't skip this step! Grease serves two critical purposes: it ensures the pedals thread in smoothly without binding, and it creates a barrier against water and corrosion, which prevents the pedals from seizing to the crank arms in the future.

Install the New Right-Side (Driveside) Pedal

Take the pedal marked 'R'. Carefully align it with the hole in the right crank arm, ensuring it is straight. Begin threading it in by hand, turning it clockwise. It should screw in easily for the first few turns. If you feel any significant resistance, stop immediately. Back the pedal out and try again, as you may be cross-threading it.

Once you've tightened it as much as you can by hand, use your pedal spanner or Allen key to give it a final tightening. The goal is to make it firm and snug, but there is no need to exert maximum force. A solid, firm turn is sufficient. The recommended torque is typically around 35 Nm.

Install the New Left-Side (Non-Driveside) Pedal

Finally, take the pedal marked 'L'. Align it with the left crank arm. Remembering the reverse thread, begin threading it in by hand by turning it anti-clockwise. Again, it should go in smoothly without force.

After tightening it by hand, use your tool to snug it up firmly. Once both pedals are securely installed, rotate the cranks a few times to make sure everything spins freely and smoothly. You're now ready to ride.

Tip: When installing with an Allen key from the back of the crank, it can be tricky to hold the pedal still. A good technique is to hold the pedal body with one hand while you turn the crank itself with the other to start the threading process.

Quick Reference

Situation	Use this	Why
Loosening the Right Pedal	Turn spanner Anti-Clockwise	It has a standard "righty-tighty, lefty-loosy" thread.
Loosening the Left Pedal	Turn spanner Clockwise	It has a reverse thread to prevent it from unscrewing while you ride.
Tightening the Right Pedal	Turn spanner Clockwise	Standard threading for tightening.
Tightening the Left Pedal	Turn spanner Anti-Clockwise	Reverse threading for tightening.
A pedal is completely stuck	Penetrating oil, more leverage, or gentle heat	These methods help break the bond of corrosion or an over-tightened thread.
New pedal won't thread in	Stop, remove, and re-align	Forcing a pedal that resists hand-tightening will cross-thread and ruin the crank.

Common Problems When You Change Pedals On A Bike

Even with the right instructions, you can run into a few common issues. Here’s how to troubleshoot them.

The Pedals Are Seized and Won't Budge

This is the most frequent problem, usually caused by corrosion from water ingress or a previous installation without grease. First, double-check you are turning the wrench in the correct direction. If you are, apply a liberal amount of penetrating oil (like WD-40 Specialist Penetrant or PB B'laster) to the thread area and let it soak for at least 15-30 minutes, or even overnight for very stubborn cases. Then, use a longer spanner or slide a metal pipe over your existing spanner (a 'cheater bar') to increase your leverage. Apply force carefully and steadily.

Cross-Threading the New Pedal

Cross-threading happens when you force a pedal into the crank at an angle, cutting new, incorrect threads and damaging the crank arm. The golden rule to prevent this is to always start threading by hand. A correctly aligned pedal should turn smoothly for several rotations with just your fingers. If it feels tight or gritty right away, it’s not aligned correctly. Back it out and start again. If you've already damaged the threads, stop immediately. A bike shop may be able to repair the threads with a special tool called a tap, but severely damaged cranks will need to be replaced.

New Pedals Feel Wobbly or Make Noise

A creaking or clicking sound with each pedal stroke after installation usually points to one of two things: the pedals aren't tight enough, or the threads weren't greased. Unthread the pedal, apply a fresh layer of grease, and reinstall it, making sure it's firmly tightened. A wobbly feeling suggests the pedal isn't fully screwed in or, in rare cases, the bearings within the new pedal are faulty.

Advanced Tips for Changing Bike Pedals

Once you’ve mastered the basics, these tips will help you do the job like a professional mechanic.

Use a Torque Wrench for Precision

If you have carbon fibre crank arms or simply want to be precise, using a torque wrench is best practice. Most pedal manufacturers recommend a torque setting between 35 and 40 Newton-metres (Nm). Overtightening can damage delicate carbon cranks, while under-tightening can lead to creaking or pedals working loose. You'll need a torque wrench with a compatible crow's foot or Allen key socket.

Install Pedal Washers

Some pedals come with very thin washers. Their purpose is to provide a clean, flat interface between the pedal axle and the face of the crank arm, protecting it from getting scratched or gouged. They can also provide a tiny bit of extra clearance if your shoe is rubbing on the crank. If your pedals come with them, it's good practice to use them.

Regularly Service Your Pedals

To prevent your pedals from ever seizing in the first place, make it a habit to remove, clean, and re-grease their threads once a year as part of your annual bike service. This takes just a few minutes and will save you a major headache down the line.

How Do You Change Pedals On A Bike FAQ

Are all bike pedal threads the same size?

For the most part, yes. Nearly all modern adult bicycles use a 9/16-inch diameter with 20 threads per inch (TPI). However, some older bikes, one-piece cranks found on some BMX or cruiser bikes, and some children's bikes use a smaller 1/2-inch standard. Always confirm your new pedals match your bike's requirements.

Why is the left bike pedal threaded backwards?

This is a clever piece of mechanical engineering related to a phenomenon called "precession." As you pedal, the force on the axle causes it to try and 'roll' inside the threads. On the right side, this rolling motion naturally tightens a standard thread. On the left side, it would loosen a standard thread. By reversing the thread on the left pedal, the pedalling motion constantly works to keep it tight, preventing it from unscrewing as you ride.

Can I use regular WD-40 or engine oil instead of bike grease?

It's not recommended. Standard WD-40 is a water displacer and solvent, not a lubricant, and will evaporate quickly. Engine oil is not thick enough to stay in place and prevent creaking under the high pressure of pedalling. A proper bike grease or anti-seize compound is designed to be thick, durable, and water-resistant, making it the right choice for the job.

What do I do if my pedals have no flat spots for a spanner?

Many modern pedals, especially for road or mountain bikes, are designed for a sleeker look and are installed or removed exclusively with an Allen key. Look for a hexagonal socket on the very end of the pedal axle, accessible from the inside of the crank arm. This will typically require a 6mm or 8mm Allen key.

Final Checklist for Changing Bike Pedals

Confirmed new pedals have the correct thread size for your bike (usually 9/16").
Identified the 'L' (Left) and 'R' (Right) pedals before starting.
Bike is held securely in a stand or against a wall.
Used the correct tool: a 15mm pedal spanner or the right size Allen key.
Correctly identified the loosening direction: clockwise for the left, anti-clockwise for the right.
Cleaned all old grease and dirt from the crank arm's internal threads.
Applied a fresh, even layer of bike grease to the new pedal threads.
Started threading both new pedals by hand to ensure correct alignment.
Tightened both pedals to be firm and snug.
Performed a final check by spinning the cranks to ensure smooth operation.