How Do I Remove Bike Pedals

Removing your bike pedals is a fundamental maintenance skill, essential for cleaning, upgrading, or packing your bike for travel. While it seems simple, a common pitfall trips many people up: the left pedal has a reverse thread. This guide provides clear, step-by-step instructions to remove any pedal correctly and safely, explaining the tools you need and how to deal with stubborn, seized pedals without damaging your bike.

Fast Answer

Right Pedal (Drive-Side): Turn anti-clockwise to loosen.
Left Pedal (Non-Drive-Side): Turn clockwise to loosen.
Tool Needed: Usually a 15mm pedal wrench or an 8mm Allen key.
Helpful Mnemonic: To loosen, turn the wrench towards the back of the bike for both pedals.

5-15 Minutes Time needed

Easy Difficulty

Reverse Threading Watch out for

Before You Start

Identify your pedal type: Look at where the pedal axle meets the crank arm. You'll either see two flat surfaces for a wrench (a "spanner flat") or a hexagonal socket on the end of the axle for an Allen key.
Gather your tools: You'll need either a 15mm pedal wrench or a 6mm/8mm Allen key set, some rags, penetrating oil (like GT85 or WD-40), and bicycle grease for reinstallation.
Wear protective gloves: This will keep your hands clean and protect them from scrapes on the chainrings.
Work in a stable position: Use a bike stand if you have one. If not, lean the bike securely against a wall.

Check first: The left-side (non-drive-side) pedal is reverse-threaded. You must turn it clockwise to loosen it, which is the opposite of a standard nut or bolt. Trying to force it anti-clockwise will only make it tighter.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Prepare the Bike and Pedals

Before you apply any force, prepare your workspace. Shift your bike's chain onto the largest front chainring. This simple action serves as a guard, protecting your knuckles from the sharp teeth if your hand slips. Next, use a rag to wipe away any dirt, grit, or grime from the area where the pedal axle screws into the crank arm. A clean thread is easier to work with and allows penetrating oil to work more effectively.

If the bike is old or the pedals haven't been removed in a long time, apply a small amount of penetrating oil to the threads on both sides. Let it soak for at least 10-15 minutes before you begin. This will help break down any corrosion that has seized the threads.

Position the Drive-Side (Right) Crank for Leverage

Start with the right-side pedal, which is on the same side as the chainrings. Rotate the crank arms until the right crank is pointing forward, in the 3 o'clock position. This orientation is crucial because it allows you to position your tool pointing upwards, letting you push downwards using your body weight for maximum leverage and control. It's much safer and more effective than trying to pull upwards with just your arm strength.

Tip: Stand on the left side of the bike, facing the drive-side. This gives you a stable stance to push down on the wrench while holding the bike steady.

Loosen the Right Pedal (Anti-Clockwise)

For the right-side pedal, the standard "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey" rule applies. Attach your 15mm pedal wrench or insert your 8mm Allen key securely into the axle.

Ensure the tool is fully seated to avoid stripping the bolt or wrench flats. Apply firm, steady downward pressure on the wrench, turning it anti-clockwise (towards the rear wheel). The pedal might break free with a sudden crack or pop; this is normal. If it doesn't budge, give it a short, sharp push rather than a slow strain. Once loose, you should be able to unscrew it the rest of the way by hand.

Position the Non-Drive-Side (Left) Crank for Leverage

Now, move to the left side of the bike. Just as before, you need to set up for maximum leverage. Rotate the crank arms so the left crank is pointing forward, in the 9 o'clock position (when viewed from the left side). This mirrors the setup on the right side and again allows you to push down on your tool for a safe and powerful motion.

Loosen the Left Pedal (Clockwise)

This is the step where most mistakes happen. Remember, the left pedal is reverse-threaded. Attach your wrench or Allen key securely. To loosen it, you must turn the tool clockwise (again, towards the rear wheel).

Apply firm, downward pressure. Because you are pushing in the same direction relative to the bike (towards the back), the muscle memory feels similar to the right side, which can help. This reverse threading is a clever piece of engineering called precession, which prevents the pedalling motion from gradually unscrewing the pedal over time. Once you break the initial tension, continue to unscrew it clockwise until it is free from the crank arm.

Tip: The easiest way to remember the direction for both pedals is that you always turn the wrench towards the back of the bike to loosen, and towards the front to tighten.

Clean and Inspect the Threads

With both pedals removed, take a moment for good maintenance. Use a clean rag to wipe the threads on both the pedals and inside the crank arms. Look for any signs of damage, such as stripped or crossed threads. If the threads are just dirty, a degreaser can help clean them thoroughly. This is also the perfect time to identify which pedal is which; they are almost always stamped with a small 'L' and 'R' on the axle.

Quick Reference

Situation	Use This Method	Why It Works
Removing the Right Pedal	Turn wrench ANTI-CLOCKWISE (towards rear)	It has a standard right-hand thread.
Removing the Left Pedal	Turn wrench CLOCKWISE (towards rear)	It has a reverse (left-hand) thread to prevent loosening.
A pedal is completely stuck	Apply penetrating oil and wait 30 mins. Use a longer wrench for more leverage.	Oil breaks down corrosion, and leverage multiplies your force.
Installing new pedals	Apply grease to threads. Tighten towards the FRONT of the bike.	Grease prevents future seizing and ensures easy removal.

Common Problems When You Remove Bike Pedals

Sometimes, things don't go as smoothly as planned. Here are solutions to the most frequent issues you might encounter.

The Pedal is Seized and Won't Budge

This is the most common problem, especially on bikes that have seen a lot of wet weather. Don't panic and apply brute force just yet.

More Penetrating Oil: Apply another generous dose of penetrating oil. This time, lean the bike so the oil pools around the thread and let it sit for several hours, or even overnight. Patience is key.
Add Leverage: A standard pedal wrench is long for a reason. If you're using a short Allen key, find a way to increase your leverage. You can sometimes slip a sturdy metal pipe (a 'cheater bar') over the end of your wrench to give you a longer handle. Use this extra leverage carefully and smoothly.
Use Gentle Heat: Metal expands when heated. Carefully use a hairdryer or a heat gun to warm up the crank arm around the pedal axle for about a minute. The aluminium crank will expand faster than the steel pedal axle, which can help break the bond. Do not use a blowtorch, and be extremely cautious with carbon fibre cranks, as excessive heat can damage them.

The Wrench or Allen Socket Starts to Round Off

If your tool slips, stop immediately. You are in danger of 'stripping' the fitting, which makes removal much harder.

Check Your Tool: Is it the right size? Is it a high-quality tool? Cheap or worn-out tools are a primary cause of rounded bolts. Ensure it is seated as deeply and squarely as possible before applying force.
Try a Different Tool: If you were using an Allen key and it's starting to slip, see if the pedal also has wrench flats. Sometimes switching to a snug-fitting pedal wrench provides a better grip.
Last Resort: If the flats or socket are too damaged, the pedal may need to be destructively removed with locking pliers or a large pipe wrench. This will almost certainly ruin the pedal axle. At this point, taking the bike to a professional mechanic is the safest option.

Advanced Tips for Removing Bike Pedals

For those truly stubborn jobs or for people who want to follow best practices, here are a few extra tips.

Use Your Foot: For immense but controlled power, position the crank and wrench so you can carefully press down on the end of the wrench with your foot (while wearing a sturdy shoe). Hold onto a wall or bench for balance. This uses your full body weight effectively.
Tap with a Mallet: A few sharp taps on the end of the pedal wrench with a rubber or plastic mallet can sometimes shock a seized thread into breaking free. This is known as a 'shock load' and can be more effective than steady pressure.
Prevention is the Best Cure: The number one way to avoid seized pedals is to prepare them properly during installation. Always apply a thin layer of waterproof bicycle grease or anti-seize compound to the pedal threads before you screw them in. This creates a barrier against water and galvanic corrosion.
Correct Torque: When installing, tighten pedals until they are firm and snug, but avoid using excessive force. Most manufacturers recommend a torque of around 35 Nm. Overtightening can damage the threads and make future removal incredibly difficult.

How Do I Remove Bike Pedals FAQ

Can I use a normal spanner instead of a pedal wrench?

You can try, but it's often not possible. The space between the pedal body and the crank arm is very narrow. Most standard 15mm spanners are too thick to fit properly. A dedicated pedal wrench is much thinner and also longer, providing better leverage.

Why is the left bike pedal reverse-threaded?

It's to counteract a mechanical phenomenon called 'precession'. As you pedal, the force creates a minute rotational effect on the pedal axle. On the right side, this effect tries to tighten the pedal. On the left side, it would try to loosen it. By reversing the thread on the left pedal, this precession effect works to tighten it instead, ensuring it never unscrews itself while you are riding.

Are all bike pedals removed the same way?

The principle is universal: the right pedal has a standard thread (anti-clockwise to loosen) and the left pedal has a reverse thread (clockwise to loosen). However, the tool required can vary. Most common are a 15mm wrench, but many modern pedals, especially high-end road or mountain bike pedals, use a 6mm or 8mm Allen key from the back of the crank arm.

I removed my pedals but now I can't remember which is left and right. How can I tell?

Look closely at the end of the pedal axle, near the threads. Nearly every pedal is stamped with a small 'L' for Left and 'R' for Right. If they aren't marked, you can identify them by the thread direction. Holding the pedal, if the thread spirals up to the right (like a standard screw), it's the right pedal. If it spirals up to the left, it's the left pedal.

Final Checklist for Removing Bike Pedals

Identified which tool your pedals require (15mm wrench or Allen key).
Shifted the chain to the large chainring to protect your hands.
Positioned the right crank forward (3 o'clock) to loosen.
Turned the right pedal wrench anti-clockwise.
Positioned the left crank forward (9 o'clock) to loosen.
Turned the left pedal wrench clockwise.
Cleaned the threads on both the crank arms and pedal axles.
Kept track of the 'L' and 'R' pedals for reinstallation.