How Do I Remove Bicycle Pedals

Removing bicycle pedals seems straightforward, but a hidden catch trips up many first-timers: one pedal is reverse-threaded. This guide provides clear, step-by-step instructions to remove pedals for cleaning, replacement, or packing your bike for travel. We'll cover which way to turn each pedal, what tools you need, and how to handle a stubborn pedal that's seized in place. Following these steps will help you get the job done quickly and without damaging your bike's crank arms.

Fast Answer

Right Pedal (Drive-Side): Loosens anti-clockwise (normal thread).
Left Pedal (Non-Drive-Side): Loosens clockwise (reverse thread).
Easy Mnemonic: To loosen either pedal, turn the spanner towards the back of the bike.

5-15 Minutes Time needed

Easy Difficulty

Reverse threading Watch out for

Before You Start

Gathering the right tools and understanding the mechanics of your pedals will make this job much smoother. The most critical part of the preparation is identifying how your pedals attach and remembering the quirky threading rule.

What You Need

A 15mm pedal spanner: This is a long, thin spanner designed specifically for the narrow flats on a pedal axle. A standard 15mm spanner is often too thick to fit.
Or an 8mm or 6mm Allen key: Many modern pedals do not have spanner flats and are removed using a hex socket on the inside end of the axle. Check your pedals to see which you need.
Penetrating oil: Essential for pedals that are stuck or corroded.
Clean rags: For wiping away old grease, oil, and grime.
Bicycle grease: For applying to the threads of the pedals you'll be installing, to prevent them from seizing in the future.
Protective gloves (optional): A good idea to keep your hands clean and protect your knuckles.

Safety, Timing, and Context Checks

Before you apply any force, take a moment to set yourself up for success and safety. The biggest risk is your hand slipping and hitting the sharp teeth of the chainrings.

Identify your pedal type: Look at where the pedal axle screws into the crank arm (the lever that the pedal is attached to). Do you see two flat sides for a spanner to grip? Or is the end of the axle hollow with a hexagonal socket for an Allen key? You must use the correct tool.
Secure your bike: Lean the bike securely against a solid wall. If you have a bike stand, this is the ideal time to use it. You will need to apply significant force, so you don't want the bike to move.
Check for corrosion: If you see rust or white, chalky corrosion around the pedal axle, spray it with penetrating oil now and let it soak for at least 15-30 minutes before you begin.

Check first: The left-side (non-drive-side) pedal has a reverse thread. You must turn it clockwise to loosen it. The right-side pedal loosens normally (anti-clockwise). Getting this wrong can permanently damage your crank arm.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow this process carefully, starting with the drive-side (the side with the chain and gears). The key to success is positioning the cranks correctly to give you maximum leverage.

Position the Drive-Side Crank for Maximum Leverage

Start with the right-hand, or drive-side, pedal. Rotate the crank arm so it is pointing forward, in the 3 o'clock position. This setup allows you to push down on your tool using gravity and your body weight, which is much more effective and safer than pulling up.

If you are not using a bike stand, ensure the bike is leaning securely. You can stand on the opposite side of the bike from the crank you are working on, straddling the frame to hold it steady.

Tip: Shift your chain onto the largest chainring at the front. This simple action acts as a guard, protecting your knuckles from the sharp teeth if your hand slips while applying force.

Unscrew the Right-Side Pedal (Anti-Clockwise)

This pedal has a standard thread. You will be turning it anti-clockwise, or 'lefty-loosey', to remove it.

If using a pedal spanner, fit it securely onto the flats of the pedal axle. Make sure the spanner is pushed on as far as it will go to prevent it from slipping and rounding the flats. Position the spanner so the handle is pointing upwards and slightly forward, ready to be pushed down towards the back of the bike.

If using an Allen key, insert the long end fully into the hex socket on the back of the crank arm. Ensure it is seated deeply.

Apply firm, steady pressure downwards, towards the rear wheel. The pedal may be very tight. A sharp, decisive push is often more effective than a slow, gradual force. Once it 'cracks' free, the rest of the rotation should be easy, and you can often spin it out by hand.

Reposition and Unscrew the Left-Side Pedal (Clockwise)

Now, move to the other side of the bike. Rotate the left-side crank arm so it is also pointing forward, in the 9 o'clock position. This again sets you up to push down for the best leverage.

Attach your spanner or insert your Allen key as before. Remember, this is the reverse-threaded pedal. To loosen it, you must turn it clockwise. Again, this means pushing the tool down and towards the rear of the bike.

Apply the same firm, downward pressure. You are pushing clockwise to loosen. Once the initial tension is broken, it should unscrew easily. Keep turning until the pedal is completely free from the crank arm.

Tip: The universal rule that simplifies everything: to loosen either pedal, the spanner handle always moves towards the back of the bike.

Clean and Inspect the Crank Threads

With both pedals removed, this is the perfect opportunity for some basic maintenance. Take a clean rag and carefully wipe out the threaded holes in both crank arms. You will likely find a mix of old grease, road grit, and possibly some tiny metal filings.

Getting these threads clean is crucial for a smooth installation of the new pedals. For stubborn grime, you can apply a small amount of bike-specific degreaser to your rag. Once clean, visually inspect the threads. Look for any signs of damage, such as flattening or stripping, which could indicate the crank was cross-threaded in the past.

Prepare for Pedal Installation

Whether you're installing new pedals or reinstalling the old ones after a clean, proper preparation is key to avoiding seized pedals in the future. First, identify the left and right pedals. They are almost always marked with an 'L' and an 'R', usually stamped on the end of the axle or on the pedal body.

Take your bicycle grease and apply a thin, even layer to the entire threaded portion of both pedal axles. Do not skip this step. The grease serves two purposes: it allows the pedal to thread in smoothly and provides a barrier against water and grit, which prevents the steel pedal axle from corroding and seizing into the aluminium crank arm.

Quick Reference

Situation	Use this	Why
Loosening the RIGHT pedal	Turn the tool ANTI-CLOCKWISE	This is a standard right-hand thread.
Loosening the LEFT pedal	Turn the tool CLOCKWISE	This is a reverse (left-hand) thread to prevent loosening from pedalling forces.
Pedal is completely stuck	Penetrating oil, wait 30 mins, then try again.	The oil dissolves rust and corrosion, breaking the bond between the pedal and crank.
Installing any pedal	Apply grease to the threads first.	Prevents corrosion and seizing, making future removal much easier.

Common Problems When You remove bicycle pedals

Sometimes, even with the right technique, things don't go smoothly. Here are the most common issues and how to resolve them.

The Pedal Will Not Budge

This is the most frequent problem, usually caused by a lack of grease during installation or simple corrosion over time.

Add Penetrating Oil: Liberally spray a quality penetrating oil where the pedal axle enters the crank. Let it sit for at least 30 minutes; for a very stubborn pedal, leaving it overnight can work wonders. Tap the end of the crank arm near the pedal with a rubber mallet to help the oil vibrate deeper into the threads.
Increase Leverage: A longer tool provides more torque. Pedal spanners are already quite long, but you can sometimes carefully slide a piece of metal pipe over the handle to extend it. This is a 'cheater bar'. Use this technique with extreme caution, as the increased force makes it easier to slip and damage the tool, the pedal, or yourself.
Use Gentle Heat: Aluminium (the crank) expands more than steel (the pedal axle) when heated. Gently warm the end of the crank arm with a hairdryer or heat gun on a low setting for a minute or two. The expanded crank arm may release its grip on the pedal threads. Do not use a blowtorch, as this will damage the crank's finish and heat treatment.

The Tool is Slipping

If your spanner or Allen key keeps slipping, stop immediately. Continuing will round off the tool flats or the socket, making removal nearly impossible.

Check Tool Fit: Ensure you are using the exact right size tool and that it is of good quality. Cheap tools are made of softer metal and can deform under pressure.
Ensure Full Engagement: Make sure the spanner is pushed all the way onto the flats, or the Allen key is seated deep within the socket. Sometimes dirt can prevent proper engagement, so clean out the socket if necessary.
If Already Damaged: If the flats or socket are already rounded, your options are limited. You can try gripping the axle tightly with a pair of high-quality locking pliers (vice grips), but this will likely destroy the pedal axle. In severe cases, a visit to a professional bike shop is your best bet.

Advanced Tips for how do i remove bicycle pedals

For those very stubborn pedals or for mechanics looking for a more refined technique, these tips can help.

Use Your Foot for Maximum Force

For a truly seized pedal, you can use your body weight far more effectively with your foot. With the crank positioned forward (3 o'clock for the right side), attach the pedal spanner so the handle is pointing towards the back of the bike. Hold the handlebars and the bike steady. While wearing a sturdy shoe, carefully place your foot on the spanner handle and press down firmly. This controlled, powerful force is often enough to break free the most stubborn pedals. Be very careful the spanner doesn't slip.

Understand Torque Specification

Most issues with stuck pedals come from them being over-tightened during installation. Pedals do not need to be cranked on with maximum force. Most manufacturers recommend a torque setting of around 35-40 Newton-metres (Nm). If you own a torque wrench, using it for installation is the best way to guarantee you won't have problems next time. If you don't, just aim for 'firmly snug'—tight enough that it won't wobble, but not so tight that you are straining to turn the tool.

How Do I Remove Bicycle Pedals FAQ

Why is the left bicycle pedal reverse-threaded?

It's due to a mechanical phenomenon called precession. As you pedal, the bearing friction causes the pedal axle to try and 'roll' backwards within the crank threads. On the right side, this rolling motion tightens a normal thread. On the left side, a normal thread would be loosened by this force. A reverse thread ensures that the pedalling action on the left side also has a self-tightening effect, keeping your pedal from falling off.

Can I use a normal 15mm spanner?

You can try, but it's unlikely to work. The space between the pedal body and the crank arm is very narrow. Standard spanners are generally too thick to fit in this gap. A dedicated pedal spanner is specifically designed to be thin enough to fit easily while being long enough to provide good leverage.

Does it really matter which pedal goes on which side?

Yes, it is absolutely critical. The 'L' pedal has a reverse thread and will only fit in the left crank arm. The 'R' pedal has a standard thread and only fits in the right crank arm. Forcing the wrong pedal into a crank will destroy the threads, requiring a costly crankset replacement.

What if my pedals have no flats for a spanner?

This is common on many road and mountain bike pedals to save weight and improve ground clearance. These pedals are removed and installed using an Allen key (usually 6mm or 8mm) from the inside of the crank arm. The same turning directions apply.

Final Checklist for how do i remove bicycle pedals

Before you finish, run through this quick checklist to ensure you've done the job correctly and set yourself up for easy maintenance in the future.

Identified the correct tool for your pedals (15mm spanner or Allen key).
Positioned the crank arm forward to maximise downward leverage.
Turned the right-side pedal anti-clockwise to loosen.
Turned the left-side pedal clockwise to loosen.
Cleaned the threads inside the crank arms thoroughly.
Confirmed the 'L' and 'R' markings on the pedals you are about to install.
Applied a fresh layer of grease to the pedal threads before installation.