How to Change a Bicycle Tire

Getting a flat tyre is a frustrating but inevitable part of cycling. Knowing how to change a bicycle tire yourself is a fundamental skill that saves you from a long walk home and gets you back on the road quickly. This guide provides clear, step-by-step instructions for replacing a standard inner tube on most bikes. Whether you're at home or on the trail, we'll walk you through the entire process, from removing the wheel to inflating the new tube correctly.

Fast Answer

Key Action: Use plastic tyre levers to hook the tyre's edge (bead) and lift it over the side of the wheel rim.
Main Tool: A set of two or three tyre levers.
Critical Check: Ensure the new inner tube is the correct size and valve type for your tyre and rim.

15–20 minutes Time needed

Easy Difficulty

Pinching the new tube Watch out for

Before You Start

Gathering your tools and checking a few key details before you begin will make the process much smoother. A little preparation prevents common mistakes like installing the wrong size tube or damaging your wheel.

What You Need

New Inner Tube: Must match your tyre's diameter and width (e.g., 700x28c) and have the correct valve type (Presta or Schrader).
Tyre Levers: A set of two or three plastic levers is essential. Avoid using metal tools.
Pump: A floor pump is easiest, but a portable hand pump works fine. Ensure it fits your valve type.
Wrenches/Allen Keys (if needed): Only necessary if your wheels are attached with nuts or a thru-axle instead of a quick-release lever.
A Rag: Useful for cleaning your hands or wiping down the wheel rim.

Safety, Timing, and Context Checks

First, move to a safe location away from traffic. If you're on a road, get as far off the carriageway as possible. Give yourself plenty of light and space to work. The most important check is to confirm your new inner tube is the correct size. The size is printed on the sidewall of your tyre (e.g., "700x32c" or "26 x 2.1"). The box for your new tube should list a compatible range of sizes.

Check first: The number one mistake is using the wrong inner tube. Double-check that the size and, just as importantly, the valve type (the slender Presta or the car-style Schrader) match what your bike requires.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order for a successful and trouble-free tyre change. Don't rush, especially when seating the new tyre, as this is where most mistakes happen.

1. Remove the Wheel from the Bicycle

Before you can change the tyre, you need to get the wheel off the bike. If it's the rear wheel, first shift the gears so the chain is on the smallest cog at the back. This makes removal and re-installation much easier.

If you have rim brakes, you'll need to open them to allow the tyre to pass through. Look for a small lever on the brake calliper and flip it up. For quick-release wheels, open the lever on the axle, unscrew it a few turns, and the wheel should drop out. For wheels with nuts or thru-axles, use the appropriate wrench or Allen key to loosen and remove them.

2. Deflate the Inner Tube Completely

To get the tyre off the rim, all the air must be removed from the inner tube. Unscrew the plastic dust cap from the valve.

For a Presta valve (the thin type), unscrew the small knurled nut at the tip and press down on the pin to release the air.
For a Schrader valve (the thicker, car-tyre type), use a small tool or your thumbnail to press the pin inside the valve.

Squeeze the tyre all the way around to force out any remaining air.

3. Unseat the Tyre Bead from the Rim

The edges of the tyre, called the 'beads', often stick to the inside edges of the wheel rim. You need to break this seal. Starting opposite the valve, use your thumbs to push the side of the tyre inwards and down into the centre of the rim. Work your way all around the wheel on both sides. You should feel the bead pop loose from the rim's edge.

Tip: This step is crucial. If the bead is stuck to the rim, trying to use tyre levers will be extremely difficult and you risk breaking a lever.

4. Use Tyre Levers to Remove One Side of the Tyre

Take your first tyre lever and hook the curved end under the bead of the tyre. Gently lever it up and over the edge of the rim. If your lever has a hook on the other end, you can clip it onto a spoke to hold it in place.

Take your second lever and insert it about 10cm (4 inches) away from the first. Repeat the process, levering another section of the bead over the rim. Once you have a decent section free, you can often slide one of the levers along the rim to pop the rest of that side's bead off easily.

5. Remove the Old Tube and Inspect Everything

With one side of the tyre off the rim, you can now remove the old inner tube. Push the valve stem up through the hole in the rim and pull the entire tube out.

Now for a critical inspection. Carefully run your fingers along the inside of the tyre tread to feel for anything sharp that might have caused the puncture, like a piece of glass, a thorn, or a small wire. Be very careful not to cut yourself. Also, inspect the outside of the tyre for significant cuts or damage that might require the tyre itself to be replaced. Finally, check the rim tape—the strip that covers the spoke holes inside the rim. Make sure it's smooth, intact, and covering all the spoke heads.

Check first: If you don't find and remove the object that caused the original puncture, it will immediately puncture your new inner tube as soon as you inflate it.

6. Prepare and Partially Install the New Inner Tube

Take your new inner tube and inflate it with a few pumps of air—just enough to give it a round shape. This helps prevent it from twisting or getting pinched under the tyre bead during installation.

Leave the tyre completely on the rim on one side. Locate the valve hole in the rim and push the valve of your new, slightly-inflated tube through it. Gently tuck the rest of the tube into the space inside the tyre, working your way around the wheel.

7. Seat the Tyre Back onto the Rim

This is often the trickiest part. Start at the side opposite the valve. Using your thumbs, push the bead of the tyre back over the edge of the rim. Work your way around both sides simultaneously, moving towards the valve.

The last 20-30cm will be the tightest. To create more slack, push the already-seated sections of the tyre bead into the deeper central channel of the rim. This gives you the extra millimetres you need. Use the palms of your hands to roll the final section of the tyre bead over the rim wall. Avoid using tyre levers if possible, as this is when you are most likely to pinch and puncture the new tube.

8. Check the Seating and Inflate

Before you fully inflate the tyre, do one last visual check. Go around both sides of the wheel and look at the line where the tyre meets the rim. Make sure you can't see any of the inner tube poking out. Push the valve stem in and out a little to ensure it's not trapped by the tyre bead.

Inflate the tyre to a low pressure (around 20 PSI). Check again that the bead is seated evenly all the way around. Many tyres have a handy mould line near the rim to help with this. If you see a high or low spot, deflate the tyre, massage the problem area, and try again. Once you're happy it's seated correctly, inflate the tyre to the recommended pressure indicated on the tyre's sidewall.

9. Re-install the Wheel on the Bike

With the tyre fully inflated, it's time to put the wheel back on your bike. For a rear wheel, gently pull the rear derailleur backwards to create clearance for the cog set. Guide the wheel into the dropouts, ensuring the chain is properly seated on the smallest cog.

Tighten the quick-release skewer or axle nuts firmly. The quick-release lever should be tight enough that it leaves an imprint on your palm when you close it. Don't forget to re-engage your brakes by flipping the calliper lever back down. Give the wheel a spin to ensure it turns freely and doesn't rub against the brake pads.

Common Problems When You Change a Bicycle Tire

Even with careful work, things can sometimes go wrong. Here are the most common issues and how to fix them.

Problem	Likely Cause	How to Fix It
The new tube immediately goes flat.	This is a "pinch flat," where the tube was caught between the tyre bead and the rim during installation, or the original sharp object wasn't removed.	Deflate completely. Remove one side of the tyre again. Check carefully for the cause of the puncture. Re-install, ensuring the tube is fully inside the tyre cavity.
The tyre has a noticeable wobble or high spot when spinning.	The tyre bead is not seated evenly on the rim. One section is either too high up or stuck too low in the centre channel.	Deflate the tyre to about 20 PSI. Push, pull, and massage the tyre at the problem spot until the bead line is an even distance from the rim all the way around. Re-inflate.
It's impossible to get the last bit of the tyre on the rim.	The tyre bead is too tight and there isn't enough slack to get it over the rim wall. This is common with new tyres or tubeless-ready rims.	Deflate completely. Go around the tyre and squeeze both beads into the very centre of the rim (the part with the smallest diameter). This creates slack. Try again with your thumbs.
The pump won't connect to the valve or let air in.	The pump head is not compatible with the valve, not seated correctly, or the Presta valve locknut is still tight.	Ensure your pump head is set for the correct valve type (some are switchable). For Presta, make sure the top nut is unscrewed before you attach the pump. Push the pump head on firmly.

Advanced Tips for Changing a Bicycle Tire

Once you've mastered the basics, these tips can make the job even easier and help prevent future flats.

Use Talcum Powder: A very light dusting of talcum powder on the new inner tube before installation can help prevent it from sticking to the inside of the tyre. This can make it easier to position and reduce the risk of pinching.
Line Up Your Labels: As a matter of good practice, try to align the tyre's logo or pressure information with the valve stem. This isn't for performance, but if you get a puncture, it gives you a consistent reference point to help find the hole in the tube and the corresponding spot on the tyre where the object might be.
Consider a Tyre Bead Jack: If you regularly struggle with very tight tyres (common on road bikes and tubeless-ready rims), a tool called a tyre bead jack or "tyre seating tool" can be a lifesaver. It provides the leverage needed to lift the final, stubborn section of the bead onto the rim without risking a pinch flat.
Sealant for Tubes: You can buy inner tubes that come pre-filled with a liquid sealant, or you can add it yourself. This sealant can automatically plug small punctures from thorns or glass as they happen, often without you even noticing. It's a great option for commuters or leisure riders.

How to Change a Bicycle Tire FAQ

Can I use a screwdriver instead of a tyre lever?

No, you should never use a screwdriver or any other metal tool. The sharp edge of a screwdriver is very likely to puncture your new inner tube. Worse, it can easily scratch, dent, or gouge your metal wheel rim, creating a sharp burr that could cause future punctures.

How do I know what size inner tube to buy?

Look at the sidewall of your tyre. You will see a set of numbers, such as 700x28c for a road bike or 27.5 x 2.2 for a mountain bike. The first number is the diameter of the wheel, and the second is the width of the tyre. The inner tube packaging will show a range it's compatible with (e.g., "700 x 25-32c"). As long as your tyre's size falls within that range, it will fit.

Should I patch my old tube or just use a new one?

Carrying a new tube is often the quickest and most reliable way to fix a flat when you're out on a ride. However, patching tubes is a great skill to have. It's cheaper and reduces waste. It's best to patch tubes at home where you can take your time and ensure the patch is properly bonded. For very small, clean holes, a patch is perfectly reliable.

How often should I check my tyre pressure?

It's best practice to check your tyre pressure before every ride, especially on road bikes with high-pressure tyres. Air naturally seeps out over time. At a minimum, you should check and top up your tyre pressure once a week to ensure optimal performance, grip, and puncture protection.

Final Checklist for Changing a Bicycle Tire

Before you ride off, run through this quick checklist to make sure everything is safe and secure.

Wheel Secure: The wheel is fully seated in the dropouts and the quick-release lever or axle nuts are tight.
Brakes Working: The brake calliper has been re-engaged and the brakes work correctly without rubbing.
Correct Pressure: The tyre is inflated to the recommended PSI range printed on its sidewall.
Evenly Seated: The tyre bead is uniform all the way around the rim, with no high spots, low spots, or wobbles.
Valve is Straight: The valve stem is perpendicular to the rim and not pulled at an angle.
Tools Packed: You've packed your pump, levers, and any other tools back into your saddlebag.